A COLLABORATION WITH ONE OF MY FAVORITE YARN SHOPS, HEAVENLY FIBERS IN BELFAST, MAINE.

TWO NEW DESIGNS IN CAMAROSE SNEFNUG

Collaboration is at the core of these designs. I always feel that new designs have to earn their place in the world; after all, there are so many patterns out there. That’s why I enjoy collaborating with yarn makers and shops so much; I like to think that the patterns are helping other small businesses thrive, and that our combined efforts get good yarns into the hands of knitters. And once the yarn is in those hands, my hope is that we provide knitters with an enjoyable experience that also broadens their horizons. For me, part of what is so cozy about these pieces is the fact that they were made with friends.

 

HARLEY is the bulky big sister to my Hawley design from a couple of years ago. A dear knitting friend who loves her Hawley sweater asked if I would design a bigger-gauge version in CaMaRose Snefnug. Our other dear friend, Helen, owner of Heavenly Fibers in Belfast, ME, ordered the yarn for the shop and my star sample knitter, Sue, and I got to work on the samples. Changing the yarn actually required changing the pattern more than anticipated, but the result is a pattern perfectly tailored to Snefnug’s special combination of super softness and gorgeous drape. It also means that this sweater can be worn with a wide variety of ease amounts, depending on the look and fit you want to achieve.

The brown sample is shown in size 2 (with a finished bust of 39½"/100.5 cm) worn with 3 ½"/8.75 cm of positive ease on the model for a more tailored fit. Because the sweater is knit from the top down the length of the sleeves and body are customizable; so for the proportions of this more shrunken fit, we shortened the sleeves to a three-quarter length and kept the body length at the high hip.

The gray sample is knit to match the pattern schematic exactly. This sample was made in size 3 (with a finished bust of 44¼"/112.5 cm) being worn with 8¼"/20.75 cm positive ease for a more oversized, sweatshirty fit with full length sleeves and body. If you enjoy truly oversized sweaters you can even go bigger than that. The pattern includes 8 sizes ranging from 34¾ to 67¾" / 88.5 –172) cm so it will hopefully provide a good many people with a good many options.

As always a full schematic is included so you can make fit decisions before you start and adjust as needed as you work. Before starting I would recommend first checking the full length measurement given in the schematic against your own body to see where the sweater as written will hit on your body. This will alert you to whether you may want to adjust the length as you go. In addition, I gave detailed notes at the beginning of the pattern on the exact order in which to work the pattern sections to give you the best set-up for customizing the lengths. Top-down sweaters do allow you to try on your project as you knit, but it’s important to understand the critical role that the collar and the weight of the sleeves play in where the sweater will ultimately sit on the body. Trying on the sweater without the collar and at least one sleeve can only tell you so much, and as someone who personally finds this method of fitting less predictable than flat knitting, I wanted to share with you the method I find best. If you are an experienced top-down knitter then feel free to proceed as you like—just keep in mind the elasticity of the yarn and if in doubt, block your piece in mid-project to be sure of how things will lay. In fact, I am always a proponent of blocking mid-way through a project so that option is always encouraged.

If this yarn is new to you, CaMaRose Snefnug is what is known as a blown yarn construction; it is composed of hollow cotton tube, through which merino wool and baby alpaca is blown. This construction is a great way to create bulkier weights of heavy fibers like alpaca while keeping the overall effect light. It can also be a way to use less of a luxury fiber while still maintaining heft in the finished yarn (thus keeping the yarn affordable) as well as a way to protect a delicate fiber from abrasion.

Although there are many blown yarns on the market, there are a number of things that set Snefnug apart. The palette and price are hard to beat and I love that it uses only natural fibers; CaMaRose is committed to sourcing and producing their yarns responsibly and Snefnug is produced by an Italian family-owned spinning mill with consideration for both environment and animal welfare. The merino wool used is certified mulesing free and comes from South America. The baby alpaca is from Peru, and the cotton is from Egypt. The yarn is very elastic given its construction and this is what gives it fluidity and drape as well. Once again, I feel indebted to a company that has made so many careful choices when producing their yarn.

I’ve said this in earlier posts but it bears saying again, that in addition to the yarn producers who make the yarn, I also want to support the stockists and shops who make these yarns available to us. Heavenly Fibers/Fiber of Maine has been a big supporter of mine since my earliest days designing and I really enjoyed the chance to support them in return. As a former yarn store salesperson, I know just how helpful it is to have a go-to pattern you can trust to go with a specific yarn that you have in stock. I should also mention that this shop puts a special emphasis on yarns produced in Maine so you may also want to check out their offerings in that area.

With that support in mind, I also wanted to create a simple, one-skein project for shops to use an introduction to the yarn. La Coupole is the result. A light-as-air layer of warmth in a classic, unisex texture, designed to fit most heads. The name is a nod to both the dome-like shape of the hat as well as the enduring style of the iconic Paris brasserie that lends the hat its name. Because this yarn is so unique I actually ended up created two versions of the pattern using different needle sizes and gauges. This one (called La Coupole (Soft) is calibrated for drapey fibers like Snefnug and a second version, La Coupole (Structured) was designed for yarns at the opposite end of the structural spectrum.

 

This version of the hat is made with De Rerum Natura Cyrano, a woollen spun blend of merino d’Arles and Portuguese merino tightly twisted into a 5-ply, heavy Aran weight yarn—perfect for robust stitch definition and durability, despite the softness of the fiber.

I’ve been diving into swatching with De Rerum’s yarn lines this fall and it has been a total revelation; it’s like when you hear a song or read a poem that makes you wonder how the writer could know exactly how you feel. When I picked up this yarn I felt as if the maker knew exactly what I had been looking for. The fiber, the colors, the process, the aesthetic…everything about their offerings strikes a chord for me. This is just the first of what I hope will be many patterns featuring their yarns.

And just like CaMaRose, De Rerum Natura is a company that puts process and provenance first. Ethical treatment of animals and people, low impact dyeing and processing, and a commitment to transparency are at the core of the company. You can read more about their beautiful and remarkable story here.

I would also add that they have been the loveliest company to correspond with and it is always heartening to see when a philosophy pervades every aspect of a small business, down to how they treat their customers and designers.


I played the viola growing up and I often describe myself as a viola personality. I like being in the middle of things, playing a small role that may not seek the spotlight but is nonetheless an important part of the whole. I like being the bridge between you and the yarn and figuring out ways to bring you together.

I hope you enjoy these patterns as much as I enjoyed both making the pieces and fostering the connections with these wonderful companies and shops.

As ever…

Previous
Previous

DEEP WINTER PATTERNS AND NEW CLASS

Next
Next

VIDEO FINISHING TUTORIALS for the HORNBAEK CARDIGAN